Process of making shoes.



M. BROCK.

PROCESS OF MAKING SHOES. APPLICAHON mu) JUNE 14, I916.

Patented July 23, 1918.

3 SHEETS SHEET I.

M BROOK.

PROCESS OF MAKING SHOES. APPLICATION FILEU IUNE 14, 1916- 1,273,323. PHIGH'DOd July 215, 1918.

3 SHEETS-SHEEI 2.

M. BROOK.

PROCESS OF MAKING SHOES.

APPLICATION FILED JUNE I4, 1916.

1,273,323. Patented July 23,1918.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 3 Fig. 7.

WVE VTUQ WW/ 'ing boots and shoes. the invention is to provide an improved- UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

HAT'I'HIAS BROOK, O1! BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNO-R, BY MESNE ASSIGNMENTS,

TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATION, OF PATER ON, NEW JERSEY, A COR- IORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

PROCESS OF MAKING SHOES.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented July 23, 1918.

Original application filed June 10, 1814, Serial No. 844,209. Divided and this application filed June 14,

1916. Serial No. 103,847.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, MATTHIAS BROOK, a citizen of the United States, residin at Boston, in the county of Suffolk and tate of Massachusetts, have invented certain Improvements in Processes of Making Shoes, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like reference characters on the drawings indicating like parts in the several figures.

This invention relates to processes of mak- A general object of process of treating shoes, referably as an intermediate step in their manufacture, which will permanently increase their size. In the following description particular reference is made to its utility in a new process of making stitch-down shoes. A machine which may be used for carrying out this process forms the subject-matter of a copending application. Serial No. 844,209, filed June 10, 1914, of which this application is a division. It will be understood, however,

that the invention is not restricted to emloymcnt in making shoes of this particular ind but is of utility enerally in the manufacture of shoes whet ier the shoes be made by the stitch-down process, turn shoe process, or any of the Well-known processes of making shoes.

In the manufacture of shoes by the former rocess disclosed in United States Letters atent No. 931,851, granted August 24, 1909, on application of Karl Engel. the toe and heel ends of the shoe upper are molded to the shapes of the corresponding parts of a last and an innersole is stitched to said upper before said upper is placed upon the last. To insure the production of a properly fitting shoe by this'process it is substantially essential that the upper should be out very carefully to pattern and that the insole should be stitched carefully to the molded upper. When this is done difliculty is experienced in inserting the last particularly in the manufacture of the large sizes of shoes; and moreover the mere insertion of a last of the proper size in a shoe thus made does not effect such proper stretching of the upper in all directions as is essential to the production of a finished shoe having a neat and smooth appearance. An important object of the present invention, therefore, is to provide a new process of making shoes adapted Without sacrifice of their utility to be employed to advantage in the manufao ture of shoes made in accordance with the general principles of operation of the process disclosed in the Letters Patent aboveddentified, said new process comprising as a further important step a stretching of the upper preferably in various directions along different dimensions whereby those parts of the upper which are not shaped by the toe and heel molding operations may be properly stretched as an intermediate step between the molding and insole securing operations on the one hand and the insertion of the last upon which the shoe is supported for the finishing operations on the other hand.

An important feature of the present invention consists in treatment of the shoe upper materials after-the upper has been shaped and secured to the soleso as perma nently to increase the size of the shoe, where by a material saving in stock may be cf fected. Preferably by this process the stretching is efl'ected by relative movement of the members which are placed Within the shoe and conform more or less exactly to the shape of the finished shoe, the members comprising a 'forepart member and a rear part member which may be moved relatively on itildinally of the Shoe to stretch the shoe in t e direction of its length. The member which engages the fore art of the shoe may which has, already been molded to the rerfniired form.fr the lost. To secure uniornnty of product, it is important that the stretching members he first moved ,longitudinally and laterally of the shoe to cor- 150i shoe whereby the shoe is stretched to a predetermined larger size.

s another im )ortant step in the process, the eel sent is shaped by forming pressure applied to the hoel'seat against the stretchingi'nembcr which fills the rear part of the shoe, and preferably the heel seat forming ste is per ormcd prior to, or simultaneously wit 1, the stretching operation.

Preferablythe shoe is now allowed to r mnin under stretching tension for a time sulficient to allow the parts to become snhstantially set in their stretched condition. The stretching means is then contracted and the shoe removed therefrom and placed upon a last corresponding to the size to which the shoe has con stretched. Then if the shoe is to him: a second solo, this is laid upon the shoe 'iirt'hc usual manner to form the outsolc of the shoe and is stitched to the outwardly projeetin r flange of the upper and innersolc, a we t strip boin preferably a plied to the upper face of tile projcctin i sage and sewed to'the upper and innerso e by the stitches which nttuch the outsole to the shoe.

Figure 1 represents a'shoe upper with the toe part and heel pt tlhllwlildd with outturned flanges as a preliminary stop in my improved process;

Fig. 2 represents the application of the. upper molded as in Fi fi. 1 to an innol'fiolc out to the size required y the given upper;

Fig. 3-reprosenls the npper nttnchod to the innersole by a line of stitches and ready for the stretching operation;

Fig. 4 is a sectional view of the shoe shown in Fig. 3 placed upon the stretching means, the stretching means being set so as substum tially to fill the shoe and the heel seat forming means bring in operative position.

lg. 5 is :1 sectional view of the shoe shown in Fl 4 after the shoe has been Stretched and t 1e heel scat formed;

Fig. 6 is n perspective view showing on exemilnry means for effecting the lateral stretching of the forepart; and

Fig. i is a perspective view of the shoe after the stretchin r operation and prior to the attachment of t e outsole.

In the practice of this im rovcd process, the heel and too portions 0 the upper are molded substantially to the shape required in the finished slice, and in the case of a stitch-down shoe, have the marginal edge of the upper turned outwardly to form a sole attaching flange us is clearly shown in Fig. 1 of the drawings. These preliminary toe and heel molding operations may be performed in any suitable manner or in accordance with the molding methods dlsclosed in United States Letters Patent No. M7395, granted l chrunry 1, 1910 and No. 1,001,745, granted August 29, 19 on applications of Karl Engcl.

The upper thus molded is next assembled as indicated in Fig. 2 upon an innersulc of the proper shupe which is preferably Hill)- stunliully that of the sole of tho linisheil shoe. This innersolo, which may he of comparativoly light stock, is then secured to the upper wholly or partially around the poriphery of the shoe and is, for example shown as secured by stitches which passthrough thoontiumcd margin or flange of the upper and the margin of the lllllltl'nult: The shoe has now reached llm stage in its manufacture represented in Fig. 3 and is preferably of a given size which for purpose of illustration will be called size 7. At [his stage in its nntnufnelllre the shoe is subjected to the stretchingoperation which may be effected by plnclng the shoe upon :1 last like form having rolutlrcl) movable heel and foropul't seclions jor nxnmple, lhcpnrls ill and 1:5 as shown in llig. 4. After lhnshov. has been placed upon the form, the form in set in the [)lllfillll instance to lhc size (-m-ro. spending to that of lhe shoe, the form lhon, of course. substantially filling the shoe. Tho parts l0, 12 are then moved relatively m Sll't'll'll line slim: longitudinally and prefernbly are moved prmlotrrininod distance to inert-use the size of the shop, given amount. in this instance in size ll. The relative moromcnt of the parts 10 and 12 may convenirntly be oll'ortod by moclmnism such as llmt shown in the application above ltlfl'l'l'lnl lo, for example, the iurrpnrt 12 of the Hilt'illh ing means may he movrd relatively to the heel port by a connection l-lin one arm of the liell-ci'nnl lover-2h mounted on a pivot 15 fixed relative y to the lltlt'l nil-t l0 and hm lug another wrm connected lwu rod :50 with operating lm-chnnism for pulling on the. rod

to more the part 12 longitudinally of the shoe.

The form of the shoe is preferably expulldud laterally to ell'ect stretching of the shoe in the direction of its width-end this lateral stretching may conveniently be porformed at the same time as the longitmlinal stretching. A convenient construction for oliccting this is shown in Fig. 6 where .0 too as described together with the lateral;

the forepart of the stretching form is shown as divided longitudinally of the shoe into two parts 12, 16 which are pivoted together and to the longitiudinally moving connecting member 14 near the end which enters the toe of the shoe and are provided with )lIlS 22 which engage inclined slots 24 iormed in relatively stationary parts. The pivoting of the parts 12, 16 together at thei separation of these parts at their positeq ends which are located adjacent to t e ball portion of the shoe by the action of the pins 22 in the slots 24 as the parts 12, 16 are moved longitudinally of the shoe, effects.

progressive lateral stretching of the forepart of the. shoe which increases in extent progressively from the toe toward the ball and ,ialzcs place simultaneously with the longitudinal stretching reflected by movemcnt ol the members 1:2, 16 together longi tudinally of the shoe and relatively to the stationary part 10.

The her]. seat of the shoe may he shaped prior to, or simultaneously with, the stretching operation and convenient means for effecting this is shown in Figs. 4 and 5. This means comprises a U-shaped member 46 which is positioned longitudinally of the shoe by a stop 48 which engages the rear end of the shoe. Mechanism is preferably provided, as fully explained in the application above referred to, for forcing the 1ncmber 4-6 firmly against the heel seat of the shoe during the stretching operation.

After the stretching operation has been performed as described, the shoe may be regarded as completed. To get the best results from my improved method, however, the sole first attached is of comparatively light stock susceptible of being stretched and is regarded as an innersole. Accordingly, to complete the shoe, a last of the size to which the shoe has been stretched is inserted in the shoe, an outersole is laid upon the shoe in the usual manner and is attached to the sole. atltachin flange of the shoe, this flange being formedzin the case of a stitch-down shoe, by the outturned upper and outwardly extending margin of the innersole.

. claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States:

1; That improvement in the art of making shoes which comprises molding to shape the heel andtoe ends of a shoe upper oil the last," attaching a sole to the up er, and then stretching the shoe permanently to increase its size.

2. That improvement in the art of making shoes which comprisesmoldingto shape the heel and toe ends of a shoe 11 per, attaching the sole to the upper and 51611 stretching the shoe longitudinally permanently to increase its size.

3. That improvement in the art of making shoes which comprises shaping the heel an toe ends of an upper substantially to the shape which they are to have in the finished shoe, attaching a sole to the upper, stretching the shoe as a whole longitudinally and stretching the forepart laterally permanently to. increase the size of the shoe, and then completing the shoe.

4. That improvement in the art of making shoes which comprises molding the toe part. and the heel partof a shoe to substantially the form which they are to assume in the finished shoe, attaching the sole to the upper, and then stretching the forepart of the shoe by progressively decreasing amount from the ball portions toward the toe permanently to increase the size of the shoe.

5. That improvement in the art of making shoes which comprises preparing the shoe upper off the last with a sole attached thereto, inserting a form in the shoe, adjusting the form to fill the slice and then expanding the form, removing the form, inserting a last of substantially the size of the expanded form, and then completing the shoe.

6. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in preparing a shoe upper off the last with the sole attached thereto, inserting a form in the shoe, adjusting the form to fill the shoe, expanding the form a predetermined amount to stretch the shoe to a predetermined size, removing the form, inserting a last of a size to fit the stretched shoe, and then completing the shoe.

7. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in preparing a shoe upper oil the last, attaching the sole thereto, inserting a form in the shoe, adjusting the form to fill the shoe, then expanding the form a predetermined amount longitudinally and expanding the forepart of the form laterally permanently to increase the size of the shoe.

8. That improvement in the art of making shoes which cqnsists in preparing a. shoe upper oil the last, attaching the sole thereto, inserting a form in the shoe, and expanding the form longitudinally and laterally permanently to increase the size of the shoe, the lateral expa'nsionbearing a fixed ratio to the longitudinal expansion.

9. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in molding the toe part of an up or to the desired shape of the toe Of- ",i;l l 'nished shoe and simultaneously forming outwardly projecting flange thereon, securing the margin of an innereole to said flange, stretching the shoe permanently to increase its size, and securing an outer sole to the margins of the upper and inner-sole.

10. That improvement in the art of. making shoes which consists in molding the end portions of the shoe to the deeirecl shape of the finished shoe and simultaneously ()I'llling thereon outwardly n'ojectiug flanges, securing the margin of t 1e sole to the said flanges, anti then stretching the shoe to a predetermined um.

11. That imprmement in the art of making shoes which consists in molding the toe part. of the upper to the shape of the toe of a last and simultaneously forming an outwardly projecting flange thereon prior to lasting, securing the margin of an innersole to said (hinge, stretching the shoe to a given size, inserting a last. of the size to which the Shoe is Stretched, and securing an outersole to the margins of the upper and innersole.

12. That improvementin the art of making shoes which consists in forming an out.- Wlirilly Lnrneil flange n the toe part and on the heel part of the upper, molding such parls lo the shape of the lasted shoe, turning out. the sides of the upper, and stitching thereto and to the flanges an innersole, stretching the upper longitudinally and laterally from the hall portion toward the toe permanently to increase the size of the shoe, inserting a lastin the stretched shoe, and then cmnplctingthe shoe.

13. That improvement in the art of mahing shoes which consists in forming an out- Wiillll turned flange oh the toe partof an upper, molding such part to the shape oi a. lasted Shoo. molding the counter nnd heel sliillener of the upper to the shape of the lasteil shoe. and forming thereon an outiuriual flange, leaving lhc sides of the upper lllllllOiKlQLl, turning out the sides of the upper, and attaching thereto and to said [laughs an innersolc, stretching the shoe laterally and longil-lulhially to a predetermined extent pcrnnmenily to increase the size of the shoe, and securing an outcrsolo to the toe and counter flanges, to the intermediate outiurned sides of the upper and to the margin of the innc-rsolo.

It. That innirorement in the art of making shoes which. consists in molding the toe and heel portions of a shoe up or and the still'cuers therefor to the final s mpe of the lasted shoe, forming thereon outturned flanges, securing said fian ee to the margin of an inncrsole, stretching ilie shoe longitudinally and laterally to a predetermined size, insertin r a last, and securing the ontersole to said. i angcs and to theoutturueti sidce of the upper. I

' 15. hat improvement 1n the art of mak- --ing shoes whic ing shoes which comprises attaching an upper to a sole of! the mat, stretching the shoe upper to increase its size, and inserting a last in the attached upper and sole.

16. That "improvement in the art of making shoes which comprises attaching an upper to a sole ofl? the last, stretching the shoe thus formed to increase its size, inserting a last of the size. to fit the stretched shoe, and then completing the shoe.

17. That improvement in the art. of making shoes whio i comprises attaching an upper to a sole of? the last, stretching the shoe thus formed to increase its len 1, inserting a last of a size to fit the stretc icd shoe, and then completing the shoe.

18. That improvement in the art of making shoes which comprises attaching an up-i per to a sole of! the last,.stretching the shoe thus formed to increase its width, insertin a last of a size to fit the stretched shoe, an then completing the shoe.

19. That improvement in the art of making shoes which comprises moldin portions of a shoe upper, attaching a see to the molded upper while the upper is still 03 the last, stretching the shoethuu formed permanently to increase its size, inserting a last in the stretched shoe, and then completing the shoe.

20. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in forming portions of a shoe u per substantially to the she as of a last ant attaching the upper to a so c,

then stretching the shoe permanently to increase its size, inserting a last of the size to which the shoe has been stretched, and coinplcting the shoe.

ill. That improvement in the art of making v-hoee which comprises preparing a shoe upper with a sole attached thereto, stretching the shoe permanently to increase its size, and then completing the shoe.

22. That im rovemiht in the art of making shoes whi 1 comprises attaching an upper to a sole off the last, stretching the up per permanently to increase its size, and

applying forming pressure to the heel seat.-

23. That improvement in the art of male ing shoes which comprises attaching an up-' per to a sole, stretehingthe upper permanently to increase its size, applying forming pressure about the marginal portion only of the heel seat, inserting a last, and completing the shoe in the usual manner.

24-. That improvement in" the art of mak- 1 comprises attaching an upper to a sole, stretching theupper, a-p lying forming pressure about the mlirgina portion of the heel seat simultaqlcopsly with the stretching o oration, inserting a last, and completing t e shoe in the usual matmer.

25. That he rovementgin t art of making shoes whic comprie'es pro a shoe upper with a sole attached thereto, insert ing a form in the shoe, ad listing the 'form to fit the shoe, holding the eel seat against movement away from the form, ex ending the form to increase the size of t e shoe, inserting a last of a size corresponding to the size of the stretched shoe, and then oompleting the shoe.

26. That improvement in the art of mak- 10 ing shoes which consists in molding the heel part of an upper to the desired shape of the heel part of the finished shoe and simultaneously forming thereon an outwardly ex,

tending flange, attaching an innersole to the margin of the upper including the said flange, applying pressure to the periphery of the heel seat of the shoe to cause the flange to be bent toward the top of the shoe upper, stretching the shoe simultaneously with the application of said. pressure to the heel seat, and then completing the shoe.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

MATTHIAS BROCK. 

